Canberra Times

Food & Wine Magazine

By Chris Shanahan

Mount Horrocks Shiraz 2012

Winemaker Stephanie Toole says she crushed a portion of the whole bunches for this wine by foot. But there’s not a trace of old sock or any other undesirable traits in this beautifully refined but full-bodied shiraz from Watervale, at the southern end of the Clare Valley. The inclusion of whole bunches introduces stems into the fermentation and any pre – or post-ferment maceration. Provided the stems are ripe, the practice introduces desirable changes to a wine’s tannin structure and subtle, pleasing stalky notes to the aroma and flavour. That element seems barely noticeable in Toole’s very slinky, slippery shiraz.

Sunday 25th May 2014